Walking | Meandering Family: Beyond the Nest

Monday, 02 June 2025. San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico.

31 days until blast off.

Feeling proud of myself that I’ve managed to write and post five days in a row. It was touch and go over the weekend. I didn’t think I’d be able to do it on Saturday. You know, the whole three days in a row writing fatigue thing.

Actually, more like the wallowing in self-centered self-pity and despair of the whole “I’ve fucked up and wasted my whole life, while ruining the life of my wife and son.” It’s a post-project crash and despair I go through almost every time I finish up a big group of projects and am sucked into the vacuum of time that’s suddenly left over. But, a good nights sleep on a cool rainy night next to the woman I love was the balm I needed.

San Miguel is so full of interesting things. I’m curious about everything and everyone. I could find something almost anywhere in this city to write about. And so many interesting people who live here or pass through here. I want to lean in to the curiosity more. Engage. Ask questions. Say hola.

As I was passing through the Jardin Principal this morning, I looked up and was reminded of the inscription on the front of Ignacio Allende’s home: Hic Natus Ubique Notus. Born here, known everywhere. Modest, right?

The plaque beside the door adds: “Here was born the immortal Ignacio Allende y Unzaga.” Immortal? He was executed by firing squad…so…there’s that.

Entrance facade to Ignacio Allende's home and birthplace. Plaque to the left of the door reads, "Here was born the immortal Ignacio Allende y Unzaga. 20th day of January to 26th day of June 1811." Immortal?

As I passed this stone fountain, on the corner of Cuna de Allende and Cuadrante, I noticed a cloud of bees flying around. I looked to see what was up and noticed they were collecting on the fountain, drinking the moisture collecting around the rim and overflowing. Yes, they’re bees. Thirsty, thirsty bees. Yes, I stopped and took photos. You’re welcome.

Gray stone fountain with water pooled in the center and overflowing, providing water for bees

Leafy motif on side of fountain with a number of bees drinking

A single bee perched on the edge of the fountain

I pass by this door all the time on Aldama and love the rich, weathered texture and colorful patina. I’ve always wondered who lives here. I’ve never seen anyone coming or going. It’s a mystery…(bonus points if you can name that movie).

Doors with a colorful worn copper green patina

If you’ve ever been to San Miguel, every morning you will see people opening their shops and mopping the sidewalks. The scent of Fabuloso wafting in the air. It’s always a curious site for new visitors; when I used to give history tours for Patronato Pro Niños, it came up quite a bit. I can’t remember anymore if it is actually mandated by the city (I believe it is) or just a point of civic pride.

Woman mopping a San Miguel sidewalk on Aldama

I’ve been asked about these signs from time to time. You’ll see them around large buildings, especially public buildings like schools. They are emergency gathering points. After the devastating 1985 Mexico City earthquake that leveled large sections of the city, Mexico instituted a series of reforms to try and bolster their disaster protection measures.

The country now has a large civil protection force to respond to public incidents. And you’ll see these signs. At least once a year (and I think a few times, but can’t remember), the country goes through a disaster simulation and among other things, building occupants evacuate to gather at these points.

Emergency evacuation point sign found throughout Mexico. A circle in the middle with four arrows point to it, indicating people are to gather here from any direction in an emergency

And another tranquil end to another beautiful day just south of the Tropic of Cancer. Grateful, curious, a little tired, and still here…for 31 more days.

Sunset glow over the north of San Miguel

Sunday 1 June 2025

Woke up to a rainy Sunday morning with gunmetal gray clouds draping the horizon.

As we’ve done almost every Sunday morning for the past several years, Pati and I walk out for coffee or breakfast before doing our weekly grocery shopping. This morning, we ended up at Panio on Salida a Celaya, where they serve an excellent shakshuka.

In the afternoon, to stretch my legs and my spirit, I headed toward the nearby Guadiana neighborhood and beyond.

Looking up Calle Guadiana. Current gentrification sprawls up the hillside to the east, where multimillion-dollar homes now sprout. The one visible is home to a well-known local immigration attorney.

Back in the 1500s and 1600s, San Miguel el Grande was a layover point on the Royal Silver Road (el camino real de tierra adentro). Merchants and craftspeople set up shop in San Miguel, along with the industries supporting them. Many settlers were from the sheep herding regions of Spain and brought their knowledge with them. San Miguel developed a well-known textile industry to process the wool. The local serapes became known throughout the world.

In the 1700s, wealthy landowners began to settle in San Miguel. Many of the mansions in Centro date to this colonial era. With gentrification during this time, others were pushed out to surrounding neighborhoods like Ojo de Agua, Valle de Maize, Mexiquito, and Guadiana, among others. The Guadiana neighborhood of that period developed around the local church, shown below. The church remains an integral part of the neighborhood and plays a central role in the annual spring rituals to the Santa Cruz and the bringing of the summer rains.

One of the current jewels of the neighborhood is the small but charming Guadiana park:

A mix of scenes below, with the narrow sidewalks, occasional tree-lined streets, and blend of the older single-story working-class homes alongside contemporary gentrified multistory homes:

I like the images below where you can see an older but well-maintained tiny home next to the lavanderia and garage, all adjacent to the converted boutique hotel: