Visting the Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte is like visiting a miniature version of Château de Versailles, and for good reason. Versailles is modeled from it. Upon visiting Vaux-le-Vicomte as a guest, Louis XIV was so stunned by its refined opulence and insulted by what he considered treasonous ostentation that he imprisoned his host, Nicolas Fouquet, for the rest of his life. Just as quickly, he seized the chateaux for himself and hired its architect, decorator, and garden designer to remodel his own palace in a similar, but much grander, style.
We first learned about the Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte while reading Man in the Iron Mask by Alexandre Dumas. The history, intrigue and drama of the story led us to visit and we were not disappointed with what we found. You won’t be either. What better time to visit this sumptuous château than when it’s decorated for the holidays? You’ll discover a magical atmosphere with lights, music and chimney fires.
Château de Vaux-Le-Vicomte
77950 Maincy
RER: Melun, from Gare de Lyon to Melun, duration: 30 min, then taxi or shuttle to the château
From November 30, 2013 to January 5, 2014
10.30 am till 6.00 pm – Last admission at 5.45 pm.
Closed on December 25th and January 1st.
Entrance: from 14 euros
Entrance + show : from 22 euros
Paris by night is enchanting whatever the season, but it’s downright magical around Christmas. The lights and decorations magnify the splendor of the city. Why not indulge in a quintessentially winter activity by gliding across the ice at some of Paris’ most beautiful holiday venues.
Rink at Village de Noël des Champs-Elysées
Avenue des Champs-Elysées, 8e, M: Concorde, Charles de Gaulle Etoile, Franklin D. Roosevelt
This ice rink is a popular feature at Paris’ largest Christmas market and is located near one of the city’s most famous and beautiful avenues. The ice rink measures 3,760 m². A toboggan run is also available.
From November 15, 2013 to January 5, 2014
– From Sunday to Thursday from 11:00 to 00:00
– On Friday and the Saturday from 11:00 to 01:00
Admission prices:
– Adults: 10 €
– Children 12 and under: 8 €
Rink at the Hôtel de Ville
Parvis de l’Hôtel de ville, Paris 4e, M: Hôtel de Ville
Two ice rinks can be found in the square in front of the handsome Hôtel de Ville (City Hall), a celebrated example of 16th-century French Renaissance architecture. Children under 6 have a little rink reserved just for them. An ID card is required to rent skates and everyone must wear gloves while on the ice.
From December 21, 2013 to March 2, 2014
– From Monday to Friday from 12:00 to 22:00
– Saturday, Sunday from 09:00 to 22:00
– Free lessons on Saturday and Sunday mornings from 10:00 to 12:00
Rink at Trocadéro
Jardins du Trocadéro, Paris 16e, M: Trocadéro
The Trocadéro is known for its picture perfect view of the Eiffel Tower and hosts another of Paris’ festive Christmas markets. You’ll also find a snow park complete with sledding and cross-country skiing.
From December 12, 2013 to January 5, 2014
– Daily from 11:00 to 21:00
The idea that “the customer is always right” was invented in the US. Although, this notion of customer service is becoming more common in Paris, it is still a “foreign” concept. That’s not to say that there aren’t countless proud shopkeepers that value their customers and show them plenty of kindness. But their treatment of you is more driven by personality than by societal expectations.
In France, the ideals of the French Revolution are alive and well: liberty, equality, and fraternity. It is not seen as necessary or dignified to act subservient to a customer. The customer is seen as an equal, no more important than the shopkeeper. If the customer wants to be treated with respect, then they must in turn treat the shopkeeper with respect.
If a tourist enters a shop expecting to be catered to and without observing the proper etiquette, then they may be in for a frustrating experience. However, if you say “Bonjour” upon entering, don’t fondle the merchandise, and politely say “Excusez-moi, Mademoiselle” when you want to get the shopkeeper’s attention, then you will likely fair better. But, remember, they aren’t “serving” you. They are allowing you to purchase their merchandise.
One more thing, don’t expect a receipt. You may get one, you may not. People simply don’t return things in France. We bought a piece of luggage at a department store in Paris and never got a receipt. It’s just a different way of doing things. C’est normal!
The French put a high value on being polite. In France, like every culture, there is an understood code of conduct and etiquette that is expected of everyone.
Part of what makes a culture or community is the fact that we do share a common set of rules for behavior. Throughout the world, those respective rules are taught to each of us from the time we are born and throughout our childhood. As adults, we are expected to know them and abide by them. They are ingrained in all of us.
The thing to remember is that etiquette and manners are not universal. Each country and culture has their own set. Sure, there tends to be enough overlap from culture to culture that we can find commonality, but it’s important to remember that what is considered polite and what is considered rude is subjective and cultural.
Sadly, too often we hear an American complain that the French are rude. Firstly, that’s a pretty broad and unfair assessment of “The French” as a whole. Secondly, when you travel to France why would you expect them to act like Americans?
Image sourced from Gawker
Bare in mind that when the French encounter visitors that don’t appear to know or respect their version of etiquette, then they can be confused or offended by our behavior. This Gawker article, and the related image, illustrate how exasperated the French can become with the rudeness of tourists.
It boils down to a misunderstanding of how we each view the world and the importance of realizing that we should all follow the cardinal rule: “When in Rome, do as the Romans do”.
Below are a few books that I can recommend if you are visiting France. Whether it’s your first visit or your a frequently visitor, you’re sure to learn something interesting and helpful.
Taking a little time to learn about the culture and etiquette of the place you are visiting will go a long way toward helping ensure that you have the most positive experience possible.
When traveling to Paris, you’re pretty much guaranteed to have some fantastic meals. It’s hard not to. The restaurants, the bistros, the cafés, oh my! And who doesn’t love exploring the wide variety of food shops to gather items for a delectable picnic in one of Paris’ lovely parks or gardens? You really can’t go wrong.
As independent travelers, we love to explore on our own and at our own pace, but sometimes it would be great to socialize and grab a meal with some other people. Easier said than done, right? What if you don’t know anyone in town? How do you meet locals and make fast-friends?
The answer is: Supper Clubs. There are a number of websites geared toward friendly locals that offer home cooked meals to travelers. It’s a little like Airbnb for meals. The locals create a profile, describe themselves, the type of meals they can provide, the languages they speak, and what they like to talk about. The traveler simply reviews the profiles, finds someone they’d like to have dinner with, and makes a reservation with them. Prices vary, but generally aren’t much more than the cost of the evening’s grocery bill.
Paris is an ideal destination for a family vacation. To the French, family is sacred and they adore children. Families spend a lot of time out and about together, both nuclear and extended families. This is in large part because Parisian apartments are small by most American standards, unless you live in Manhattan, and they don’t have yards.
This limited ‘living space’ means that Parisians spend a lot of time enjoying the city’s countless parks, gardens and green spaces. They act as a type of second living room for the locals. When you are planning a trip to Paris, be sure to factor in time to relax and unwind while you enjoy the natural (and architected) beauty of these places. We find that picnic lunches, picnic dinners, or evening strolls are an inexpensive and enjoyable way to pass the time.
If you have kids in tow, then I recommend making time for a visit to one of Paris’ many playgrounds. Most neighborhoods have at least a small playground, but there are a few that are worth seeking out and they can be found not too far from the major attractions. It makes for a wonderful reward for the little ones after a long day of museum viewing or a much needed play and lunch break in between attractions. Here are some suggestions with nearby major attractions noted.
Conveniently Located Paris Playgrounds
1) Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde, 1e, M: Concorde, Tuileries
CC courtesy of MJ MacKinnon/Alex Smith
A large playground with multiple exits mostly composed of an enormous rope-and wood climbing structure starts with an 8-foot, almost entirely vertical ladder without open rungs. There’s a metal merry go-ground, lily-pad like jumping platforms, a slide, rope hammocks, and more. Nearby Attractions: Louvre, Tuileries Gardens, Place de Concorde
2) Jardin du Luxembourg, 6e, M: Odeon, Saint Suplice, Mabillon
CC courtesy of Travelpod.com
The garden itself is beautiful and vast with plenty to keep the kids busy. They can sail boats in the central pond, ride ponies, and run on the park’s winding trails. Most of the grass is off limits (Pelouse Interdite). The playground has an intricate system of climbing structures and slides. There’s only one exit. There is a cost of 2.60 euros for kids over 18 months, 1.60 euros for adults. Nearby Attractions: Luxembourg Gardens, Saint-Sulpice Church, Cluny Museum, Montparnasse Tower, Montparnasse Cemetery.
3) Jardin des Enfant aux Halles, Forum des Halles, 1e, M: Les Halles
CC courtesy Mairie de Paris
This is a fantastic adventure playground for 7- to 11-year-olds with great tunnels and slides. The children are supervised by professional child-carers, so you can have a bit of a break yourself. Kids are limited to 1 hour and there is a 100-kid capacity. You must place your name on a list to reserve a time, but there is no entry fee. Nearby Attractions: Louvre, Pompidou, Rue Montrorgueil, Musée des Arts et Métiers.
4) Parc du Champ de Mars, Quai Branly – Avenue de la Motte Picquet, 7e, M: École Militaire
CC courtesy of Wikimedia
The Champs de Mars has a small playground perfectly situated close to the Eiffel Tower with an elaborate climbing structure, slide and sandbox. Here you find a carousel, puppet theater, pony rides, basketball and music. Nearby Attractions: Eiffel Tower, Trocadéro, Napoleon’s tomb at Les Invalides.
5) Suzanne Buisson public garden, 7 Bis Rue Girardon, 18e, M: Lamarck Caulaincourt or Abbesses
CC courtesy of Wikimedia
Hidden at the top of the Montmartre hill, this public garden has a very nice petanque area. It offers peace and quiet as there are very few people walking by. An area terraced in 1951 in art deco style it has a statue of St Denis in the centre of the garden, a children’s playground and fresh open space and benches to be still for a Montmartre moment. Nearby Attractions: Montmartre, Sacré-Coeur, Musee de Montmartre, Place du Tertre
We enjoy the luxury of being homebodies abroad. Our preference is to find a comfortable vacation rental in our chosen destination and then live like a local. Sure we enjoy visiting the top sights, but we also enjoy taking part in the simple pleasures of daily life in a foreign country.
Over the years we’ve been lucky enough to take two separate one-month-long vacations in Paris. One of our goals was to spend many leisurely afternoons picnicking in public parks throughout the entire city.
Paris has a LOT of parks and gardens. We’ve been able to visit 23 of them. There are several that are on listed in most guidebooks, such as Jardin des Tuileries, Jardin du Luxembourg, Parc du Champ de Mars, but many of there were farther afield and less traveled. Here is a list organized by Arrondissement.
Our Favorite Paris Parks
Jardin du Palais Royal, 38 rue du Montpensier, 1e, M: Louvre, Place Vendôme
Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde, 1e, M: Concorde, Tuileries
Jardin des Halles, Forum des Halles, 1e, M: Les Halles
Place des Vosges, Place des Vosges, 4e, M: Chemin Vert
Jardin des Plantes, 57 Rue Cuvier, 5e, M: Austerlitz, Censier Daubenton
Jardin Tino-Rossi, 8 Quai Saint-Bernard, 5e, M: Jussieu, Quai de la Rapée
Jardin du Luxembourg, Jardin du Luxembourg, 6e, M: Odeon, Saint Sulpice, Mabillon
Parc du Champ de Mars, Quai Branly – Avenue de la Motte Picquet, 7e, M: École Militaire
Parc Esplanade des Invalides, Avenue du Maréchal Gallieni, 7e, M: Invalides
Parc Monceau, Boulevard de Courcelles, 8e, M: Monceau
Parc de Belleville, 47 rue des Couronnes, 11e, M: Couronnes, Pyrénées
Parc de Bercy, 41 rue Paul Belmondo, 12e, M: Bercy
Bois de Vincennes, Bois de Vincennes, 12e, M: Porte Dorée
Parc Floral, Esplanade du château de Vincennes – Route de la Pyramide, 12e, M: Château de Vincennes
Parc Montsouris, 2 rue Gazan, 14e, M: Porte d’Orléans
Parc André Citroën, 2 rue Cauchy, 15e, M: Balard
Parc de Bagatelle, 42 route de Sèvres à Neuilly, 16e, M: Pont de Neuilly, Ranelagh
Bois de Boulogne, Bois de Boulogne. 16e, M: Porte Maillot
Jardin d’Acclimatation, Bois de Boulogne. 16e, M: Les Sablons
Jardins du Trocadéro, Place du Trocadéro, 16e, M: Trocadéro
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, Rue Manin, 19e, M: Buttes-Chaumont
Parc de la Villette, 211 avenue Jean Jaurès, 19e, M: Porte de Pantin
“I do not say there is no character as well-drawn in Shakespeare [as D’Artagnan]. I do say there is none that I love so wholly.”
—Robert Louis Stevenson
Many years ago I bought myself a copy of The Three Musketeers by Alexandre Dumas. I chose it from the shelves of Powell’s Bookstore primarily because of the description on the back. I remember the word “swashbuckling” jumping out at me. I was a little skeptical, but my curiosity was piqued and I thought it was worth a try.
To be honest, I found the first couple chapters a bit boring, but I kept reading and before long things started to get interesting, riveting even. It was the perfect blend of adventure, intrigue, history, romance, comedy and setting. It was, well, swashbuckling. I was hooked.
I soon learned that The Three Musketeers was actually part of a series called The d’Artagnan Romances and that it was originally published in 1844 as a serial in a Parisian magazine. I went about tracking down the full series and I read them all voraciously. I looked forward to reading on my commute, at lunch, and before bed every day. Many nights I stayed up far too late reading “just one more chapter”, and then “just one more”.
Since it was written as a serial, just about every chapter ends with a cliffhanger. I was so enthralled by the characters, the places, and events that I simply had to see it all for myself. Here are just a few places you can visit on your own Musketeer Themed Tour of Paris.
Different publishers compile the serials in different ways, so I recommend sticking with the same publisher for the entire series to ensure that your reading experience has the proper continuity and flow. Another thing to note is that these books were originally written in French, so some translations are better than others. I personally enjoy the Oxford World’s Classics editions.
Meandering Family: Beyond the Nest 