Our third day in Angkor Archaeological Park, we are early to rise once again. Leaving the hotel with breakfast boxes in hand. We make the dusty, bumpy ride out to the park along back roads, entering the west gate, right next to Angkor Wat. Winding our way through the blissful, cool forest, the sun sprinkles us with its early morning glow. Ta Keo, the sandstone temple-mountain, greets the morning sun as it’s done for almost 1100 years, since being started by Jayavarman V in 975.

Although never “completed” after being struck by lightening during its construction – a bad omen, apparently – it remains a significant accomplishment and an impressive structure, even if considerably less ornate than some. Unlike the sanctuaries and citadels of Banteay Srei or Banteay Samre, Ta Keo dominates its location. It screams monument to a king as it rises 7 stories into the sky. Continue reading Ta Keo Temple →

After a magical visit to Banteay Srei, it’s difficult to write about Banteay Samre. Not because it is any lesser, but because the earlier experience was so magical. We finally tore ourselves away from Banteay Srei as more people were showing up and the heat was steadily increasing. The tuk-tuk ride was welcome relief as we got to enjoy some more of the gorgeous countryside and some welcome early morning breeze. As we traversed the countryside, schoolyards were filling with playing children, while others walked or rode bikes along the road, all in their immaculate uniforms. Continue reading Banteay Samre Temple →

After an enjoyable day off from temple visits, we’re up early again – 4:30am – to visit Banteay Srei, also known as the Lady Temple. After devouring the breakfast boxes that the hotel was kind enough to prepare for us, we are greeted by Mr. Sim’s big, bright smile in the early morning darkness. He’s been our tuk-tuk driver throughout our visit. It’s going to be a good day. We pull out of our quiet Siem Reap neighborhood and wind our way out of town, the dusty streets rolling out before us. Bleary-eyed as we bump along the potholed streets, we smile at each other. The morning coolness, the faintest hint of gray light on the Cambodian horizon, the smell of woodsmoke as breakfast kitchens awaken – it feels like a dream. Continue reading Banteay Srei Temple →

We only know we’ve arrived at the next destination on our visit to the Angkor Archaeological Park when we see the empty expanse of gravel out before us and realize that it is a parking lot – with no cars in it. Along one side are the usual vendor stalls with a few vendors milling about and a crowd of children playing. Mr. Sim, our tuk-tuk driver, points and tells us “go in through the east gate. I pick you up at the west”.

Continue reading Ta Prohm Temple →