Tag Archives: EverydayBeauty

Meandering Through the Layers of Urban Nature, History, and Change

Tuesday, 03 June 2025. San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico.

Rain overnight. I laid awake in the dark at 3am listening to the storm. Fresh air wafted down from the window with the occasional splash of water. Like an embrace, it left me comforted.

This morning, I had to go up to El Charco to meet and do some training with one of our new guides. I figured the morning was cool, it would be a nice morning to walk. I forgot when the rains arrive, it may be cooler, but the humidity amps up. Which I know, because all the sweat that normally evaporates, now doesn’t. I was drenched.

Regardless, too busy of a day and evening to write much, so I’m just going to share some of the photos from my walk up the hill this morning.

Below are some shots of Santo Domingo, the way up to the Arcos de San Miguel and Atascadero neighborhoods.

Below are the springs that still produce at least periodic water. Even in the dry season, there is a little water coming from these. Most of San Miguel’s springs have long since dried up.

The unfortunate gateway to the unfortunate, exploitive abomination that is the Capilla de Piedra development. Can’t miss it from most parts of centro.

Up, up, and into Arcos de Atascadero.

And on into Atascadero…

San Miguel’s croquet club, located on the old Camino Real. The old royal silver road continued down into centro and eventually turns into Calle Mesones, which was the “street of the inns”.

Mezquite pods ripening from green to brown. When ripe, they’ll be sweet and edible. A local term is dulce de campesino.

And how do you tell a female pirul tree? By the abundant red berries:

Isn’t the bark on the Eucalyptus like an abstract work of art?

More rainy season photos in the late afternoon:

Daily Life and Discovery in San Miguel de Allende

Monday, 02 June 2025. San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico.

31 days until blast off.

Feeling proud of myself that I’ve managed to write and post five days in a row. It was touch and go over the weekend. I didn’t think I’d be able to do it on Saturday. You know, the whole three days in a row writing fatigue thing.

Actually, more like the wallowing in self-centered self-pity and despair of the whole “I’ve fucked up and wasted my whole life, while ruining the life of my wife and son.” It’s a post-project crash and despair I go through almost every time I finish up a big group of projects and am sucked into the vacuum of time that’s suddenly left over. But, a good nights sleep on a cool rainy night next to the woman I love was the balm I needed.

San Miguel is so full of interesting things. I’m curious about everything and everyone. I could find something almost anywhere in this city to write about. And so many interesting people who live here or pass through here. I want to lean in to the curiosity more. Engage. Ask questions. Say hola.

As I was passing through the Jardin Principal this morning, I looked up and was reminded of the inscription on the front of Ignacio Allende’s home: Hic Natus Ubique Notus. Born here, known everywhere. Modest, right?

The plaque beside the door adds: “Here was born the immortal Ignacio Allende y Unzaga.” Immortal? He was executed by firing squad…so…there’s that.

As I passed this stone fountain, on the corner of Cuna de Allende and Cuadrante, I noticed a cloud of bees flying around. I looked to see what was up and noticed they were collecting on the fountain, drinking the moisture collecting around the rim and overflowing. Yes, they’re bees. Thirsty, thirsty bees. Yes, I stopped and took photos. You’re welcome.

I pass by this door all the time on Aldama and love the rich, weathered texture and colorful patina. I’ve always wondered who lives here. I’ve never seen anyone coming or going. It’s a mystery…(bonus points if you can name that movie).

Doors with a colorful worn copper green patina

If you’ve ever been to San Miguel, every morning you will see people opening their shops and mopping the sidewalks. The scent of Fabuloso wafting in the air. It’s always a curious site for new visitors; when I used to give history tours for Patronato Pro Niños, it came up quite a bit. I can’t remember anymore if it is actually mandated by the city (I believe it is) or just a point of civic pride.

Woman mopping a San Miguel sidewalk on Aldama

I’ve been asked about these signs from time to time. You’ll see them around large buildings, especially public buildings like schools. They are emergency gathering points. After the devastating 1985 Mexico City earthquake that leveled large sections of the city, Mexico instituted a series of reforms to try and bolster their disaster protection measures.

The country now has a large civil protection force to respond to public incidents. And you’ll see these signs. At least once a year (and I think a few times, but can’t remember), the country goes through a disaster simulation and among other things, building occupants evacuate to gather at these points.

Emergency evacuation point sign found throughout Mexico. A circle in the middle with four arrows point to it, indicating people are to gather here from any direction in an emergency

And another tranquil end to another beautiful day just south of the Tropic of Cancer. Grateful, curious, a little tired, and still here…for 31 more days.

Sunset glow over the north of San Miguel

Historic San Miguel: Sunday Walks and Local Flavors

Sunday 1 June 2025

Woke up to a rainy Sunday morning with gunmetal gray clouds draping the horizon.

As we’ve done almost every Sunday morning for the past several years, Pati and I walk out for coffee or breakfast before doing our weekly grocery shopping. This morning, we ended up at Panio on Salida a Celaya, where they serve an excellent shakshuka.

In the afternoon, to stretch my legs and my spirit, I headed toward the nearby Guadiana neighborhood and beyond.

Looking up Calle Guadiana. Current gentrification sprawls up the hillside to the east, where multimillion-dollar homes now sprout. The one visible is home to a well-known local immigration attorney.

Back in the 1500s and 1600s, San Miguel el Grande was a layover point on the Royal Silver Road (el camino real de tierra adentro). Merchants and craftspeople set up shop in San Miguel, along with the industries supporting them. Many settlers were from the sheep herding regions of Spain and brought their knowledge with them. San Miguel developed a well-known textile industry to process the wool. The local serapes became known throughout the world.

In the 1700s, wealthy landowners began to settle in San Miguel. Many of the mansions in Centro date to this colonial era. With gentrification during this time, others were pushed out to surrounding neighborhoods like Ojo de Agua, Valle de Maize, Mexiquito, and Guadiana, among others. The Guadiana neighborhood of that period developed around the local church, shown below. The church remains an integral part of the neighborhood and plays a central role in the annual spring rituals to the Santa Cruz and the bringing of the summer rains.

One of the current jewels of the neighborhood is the small but charming Guadiana park:

A mix of scenes below, with the narrow sidewalks, occasional tree-lined streets, and blend of the older single-story working-class homes alongside contemporary gentrified multistory homes:

I like the images below where you can see an older but well-maintained tiny home next to the lavanderia and garage, all adjacent to the converted boutique hotel:

And the evening skies with sporadic rain surrounding us:

A Slow Farewell to San Miguel: Family, Change, and Slow Travel

Scenes from a walk

Just 35 days until we leave San Miguel. 

So much life. So much has happened.

Our son graduated prepa (high school) from the Instituto Sanmiguelense IB program, in Spanish, about a year ago. He spent a summer on his own, traveling in Oregon, visiting friends and family and working…and outrunning wildfires…all while taking care of university visa paperwork. We all traveled together through Europe for six months (futures posts on Turkey, Albania, Poland, and Czechia). And he is now well settled into Prague City University, finishing up his first semester. 

Pati and I are back in Mexico wrapping up our lives here, tying up loose ends, taking care of various paperwork, and transitioning our rental home to our friends who will take over our lease. 

All transitions are about letting go of the past and moving toward the next phase of whatever lies ahead. The bigger the transition, often the greater the sense of lossand griefthat accompanies the change. 

Pati and I processed a lot of our grief last summeran overwhelming time, indeed. We also celebrated. Still, being back in San Miguel as empty nesters without our son is difficult. So many reminders everywhere of where he was and things we’ve done together. 

But we video call about every week or so to catch up and stay in touch. He says he misses the people and the culture of Mexico. And we understand that. But he is being challenged with his new life and studies and is more than rising to the occasion. He has a small group of friends, most of whom we’ve met, who he seems to be simpatico with. Overall, he seems to be thriving in his new circumstances, so all a parent could hope for.

Meanwhile, it seems like a really good time to try to revive this blog, at least a little. I’m setting an ambitious goal of 30 posts, however small, over the next 30 days to try and document a little of this transition time, while sharing some of the tidbits of life and landscape in and around our home of the last ten years as I go on my (semi)daily walks.

Above: A beautiful male pirul tree (Schinus molle), full of pollen; a nearby female counterpart is pregnant with red berries. You can find this one along El Cardo in the back lot of the Rosewood Hotel where they overlook the pinks and grays of the fused rhyolite tuff wall. The rock comes from the Obraje formation, found in the cliffs of El Charco and underlying much of the eastern slope of San Miguel. 
Above: Spring brings ripe mulberries to Parque Juarez.
Above: One of my favorite streets to walk, especially early in the morning when there is less traffic. Named for Don Jose Maria de Jesus Diez de Sollano y Davalos, first Bishop of Leon.
Above: And here is Bishop Sollano, perched high above the courtyard of San Miguel’s Parroquia (the iconic central church in El Jardin Principal). 
Above: Here is a plaque at Calle Sollana 4 noting where he was born on 24 Nov 1820. It notes we was the “wise and cultured priest, principal promoter of the parroquial tower of San Miguel Archangel”, because he was the driving force behind building the current facade to the Parroquia, the iconic main church of San Miguel.
Above: A view up Calle Correo toward the only Dominican church in town (most of the old churches are associated with the Franciscans). The old mission-style Templo de Santo Domingo is named in honor of Santo Domingo de Guzmán (or Saint Dominic in English, founder of the Dominican order) and looked over by the Dominican Sisters of the Queen of the Holy Rosary.