Friday Rituals and Slow Travel Moments in San Miguel

Friday, 30 May 2025

Almost every Friday morning, since sometime around 2018 (at best guess), Pati and I go out for breakfast at a local cafe. Pati has Fridays off from work, so we take advantage of it as a date before the more crowded weekends.

Today, we went to one of our favorites, Cien 24, on lower Umaran. We love the atmosphere, the food is rich and tasty, and the prices reasonable. An under-discovered gem, in our opinion.

Menu at Cien 24. I can recommend most everything, and the jugo verde is well worth it.

We often follow up with a coffee at Mama Mia up on Hernandez Macias. We love the vibe in the coffee shop at the front of the restaurant. It’s one of the few cafes in San Miguel (or the world, frankly) that still has perfect hanging about music.

Above: Some of the decor at Mama Mia on Calle Hernandez Macias. Hechicera (meaning sorcerer, witch, or wizard), btw, is Mama Mia’s own craft-brewed brand. They have a restaurant and brewery out near Atotonilco, which is worth a visit.

Below is the street sign for Hernandez Macias. Interestingly, it was renamed (I don’t know when) Calle de Locutorios, which means Street of the Call Box. I had once heard stories of how there used to be one phone in town that people would arrange to use. I would love to find where it was located…

The portrait below is the only photo I’ve found of Hernandez Macias, San Miguel’s “mayor” (jefe politica) at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. The photo is located in Parque Juarez, which he was instrumental in converting into the park space that it is today.

Part of our tidying up paperwork has been collecting extra copies of Ethan’s high school diploma. We want to have a couple extra on hand since he often needs them for various visas and university paperwork. 

Looking north along Calle Hidalgo through the portal de la casa de la Canal.

Last week, I taxied up to the Instituto Sanmiguelense to pick up a couple of signed, stamped, and official diplomas. Now, they have to be apostilled, which is not easy in Guanajuato (I can’t speak to other Mexican states).

Here, I take them to a local notario. I work with Sr. Juan Zavala at Notaria 12 on San Francisco. He makes an appointment and takes the documents over to the capital, Guanajuato, about an hour’s drive west of us, where the documents are apostilled. He then returns them to me about 10 days later, depending on when he can schedule an appointment. But at least we’ll have them.

Every time I see someone with the name Zavala in San Miguel, I think of this statue of Jose Manuel Zavala Zavala. If you talk to anyone around my age or older who grew up here, they’ll know him. He was THE local radio personality. 

Statue of Jose Manuel Zavala Zavala, local radio legend, across from the Antigua casa del Conde de Loja on Calle Sollano.

When we first moved to San Miguel, it was almost impossible to figure out when anything was happening. It felt like there was no way to learn about events. We finally asked locals, who said you learn everything on the radio, XHSQ, 103.3FM, a tradition that Sr Zavala Zavala was instrumental in. These days, it is a little easier to learn of things…but not much, and the radio is still the best way to know what’s happening. Or the radio station’s website.

As Ethan was in middle school and prepa, we commuted via car to and from school. During my weeks to drive (we traded weeks with another parent), I would often listen to the station to practice my Spanish comprehension and try to learn what was going on in town. 

And if you know San Miguel, we have a (semi)ring road, usually referred to as the “libramiento” (or the freeway). The highway’s official name is Libramiento Jose Zavala Zavala, named in his honor. If you watch local Facebook news feeds (another good way to learn the scoop on local news), you’ll often see the road referred to as PPKBZON, Sr Zavala’s radio call sign. 

Entrance to the Antigua Casa del Conde de Loja. You can see the radio tower above it, and the radio station is located in the courtyard to the right.
The broadcast booth, with programming in progress.
Señor Zavala, back in the day in his broadcast booth.
And the perfect end to a perfect day…

A Slow Farewell to San Miguel: Family, Change, and Slow Travel

Scenes from a walk

Just 35 days until we leave San Miguel. 

So much life. So much has happened.

Our son graduated prepa (high school) from the Instituto Sanmiguelense IB program, in Spanish, about a year ago. He spent a summer on his own, traveling in Oregon, visiting friends and family and working…and outrunning wildfires…all while taking care of university visa paperwork. We all traveled together through Europe for six months (futures posts on Turkey, Albania, Poland, and Czechia). And he is now well settled into Prague City University, finishing up his first semester. 

Pati and I are back in Mexico wrapping up our lives here, tying up loose ends, taking care of various paperwork, and transitioning our rental home to our friends who will take over our lease. 

All transitions are about letting go of the past and moving toward the next phase of whatever lies ahead. The bigger the transition, often the greater the sense of lossand griefthat accompanies the change. 

Pati and I processed a lot of our grief last summeran overwhelming time, indeed. We also celebrated. Still, being back in San Miguel as empty nesters without our son is difficult. So many reminders everywhere of where he was and things we’ve done together. 

But we video call about every week or so to catch up and stay in touch. He says he misses the people and the culture of Mexico. And we understand that. But he is being challenged with his new life and studies and is more than rising to the occasion. He has a small group of friends, most of whom we’ve met, who he seems to be simpatico with. Overall, he seems to be thriving in his new circumstances, so all a parent could hope for.

Meanwhile, it seems like a really good time to try to revive this blog, at least a little. I’m setting an ambitious goal of 30 posts, however small, over the next 30 days to try and document a little of this transition time, while sharing some of the tidbits of life and landscape in and around our home of the last ten years as I go on my (semi)daily walks.

Above: A beautiful male pirul tree (Schinus molle), full of pollen; a nearby female counterpart is pregnant with red berries. You can find this one along El Cardo in the back lot of the Rosewood Hotel where they overlook the pinks and grays of the fused rhyolite tuff wall. The rock comes from the Obraje formation, found in the cliffs of El Charco and underlying much of the eastern slope of San Miguel. 
Above: Spring brings ripe mulberries to Parque Juarez.
Above: One of my favorite streets to walk, especially early in the morning when there is less traffic. Named for Don Jose Maria de Jesus Diez de Sollano y Davalos, first Bishop of Leon.
Above: And here is Bishop Sollano, perched high above the courtyard of San Miguel’s Parroquia (the iconic central church in El Jardin Principal). 
Above: Here is a plaque at Calle Sollana 4 noting where he was born on 24 Nov 1820. It notes we was the “wise and cultured priest, principal promoter of the parroquial tower of San Miguel Archangel”, because he was the driving force behind building the current facade to the Parroquia, the iconic main church of San Miguel.
Above: A view up Calle Correo toward the only Dominican church in town (most of the old churches are associated with the Franciscans). The old mission-style Templo de Santo Domingo is named in honor of Santo Domingo de Guzmán (or Saint Dominic in English, founder of the Dominican order) and looked over by the Dominican Sisters of the Queen of the Holy Rosary.

Mexicanisimo

We’re gathered in the stately, historic Angela Peralta theater. The theater buzzes with the families, friends, and guests flowing into the space. The lights dim and multicolored laser lights begin to dance about the theater.Then there’s the “bass drop” and the pulsing music as the curtains open and we’re off.

Welcome to Mexicanisimo, a celebration of Mexico, its culture, and its traditions. The show is a production of Espacio Gimnasio, produced by Paulina Valtierra and company. Continue reading Mexicanisimo

School Picnic in San Miguel, Growing our Community

Well, it’s been almost exactly two months since Ethan started school at Colegio NWL (Newland). Our first official parent-teacher conference will take place in November and we look forward to learning more about what he’s been working on and how he is progressing. For now, we’re glad to report that Ethan is happy, he’s making new friends, and he seems genuinely interested in his school work. He says his favorite subjects are physics and math, which are both in Spanish, so that’s a great sign. Continue reading School Picnic in San Miguel, Growing our Community

How and Why We Chose Colegio NWL….For Now

Most parents set out to give their kids a well-rounded education, although the philosophy and approach will vary from family to family. What they learn, how and why they learn, what skills are important, what success and happiness mean—all are defined by each family and child. For us, those criteria and definitions have shifted and evolved from year to year, but we’ve been happy with the progression. Continue reading How and Why We Chose Colegio NWL….For Now

School in San Miguel

Upon arriving in San Miguel de Allende way back in the day (2015), it was just going to be a temporary stay—a breather—while we got our bearings and we figured out our next move. Almost immediately, we began making friends. And most importantly, our son began making friends. We don’t talk about it much, but that was incredibly important. While traveling and bouncing around, it can be a huge challenge to socialize a young, energetic, creative child who seeks close in-person friendships. So as we met people—fun, adventurous, creative, energetic, inspired people—we began to relax and have fun. Through meeting people, we began to learn about some of the school options that were available in town—there is only so much you can learn online.
Continue reading School in San Miguel

Time to “Reboot”

Trying on headwear for El Señor de La Conquista celebration

Like a hermit stretching and squinting as he emerges from his cave, we’re slowly and cautiously re-emerging from our two and a half year blogging hiatus. Hey, long time no see! We don’t really have a good reason for the hiatus, it’s mostly laziness but also because we felt like our adventure was coming to an end and we didn’t really have much to report. We had stopped being a “travel” family, always on the move, and transitioned to a “resident ex-pat” family. We began the blog as a travel journal for ourselves and for our families. We wanted to share our adventures with them and 
assuage their concerns by showing them we were still alive.
More recently, we’ve realized that we may no longer be living the lives of nomads, but our life is still very different from the one we left in the US. It’s a life full of interesting experiences and discoveries that we’d like to document for ourselves and if others find it helpful or interesting, then we’re glad to be of service.

Our transition into the life of ex-pats has been so gradual and incremental that it is only now, in hindsight, that we’ve come to see it more clearly. We didn’t set out to be expats. It was never our goal or dream. We landed in San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, México at the end of our planned year of travel with every expectation of returning to Portland, Oregon and resuming our old lives. We’d just give ourselves three months to come up with a plan. After three months, we decided we’d give ourselves another three more months, then six more months, and so on until we discovered that we’d been here for three and a half years and that we are well and truly expats.

We have established a great network of friends here and our son has become part of a community that he loves. We’ve realized that there is so much of this experience that we haven’t captured and we want to be sure we have something to look back on. For now, San Miguel de Allende is our home and we don’t have any plans to move. That said, we’ve always had a wanderlust and we are plagued with itchy feet, so we know one day we’ll move on again. But in the meantime, we scratch that itch by exploring within México.

So, what have we been up to since our last post? Well, frankly we don’t have the energy to list everything or to go into details, but here are just a few of the many, many things we’ve done on that list:

  • Become temporary residents, on the way to permanent residency
  • Dropped our US residency and insurance
  • Purchased global insurance and found an endocrinologist for our son and visited various doctors and dentists (all good!)
  • Lots of outdoor adventures such as rock climbing…indoor and outdoor
  • …and hiking, swimming holes, horseback riding etc.

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  • Participated in community performances, talent shows, and kids theater
  • Attended multiple summer camps and art camps
  • Bought a car, got a Mexican drivers’ license, and navigated all of the documentation and insurance
  • Lived in three more houses since this post
  • Adopted a calledora or street dog, who we named Olivia
  • Made many, many friends….and seen more than a few of them go 😦
  • Been through two Méxican election cycles and seen two mayors elected
  • Lead Natural History tours
  • Lead Mexican History tours
  • Three Dias de Independencia
  • A zombie party….sesos….
  • Three Dias de Los Muertos
  • Spent a week in Valle de Bravo, Mexico
  • Spent a week in Ajijic, Jalisco
  • Spent a week in Oaxaca, Oaxaca
  • Multiple weekend and overnight visits to Mexico City (CDMX)…so, so much to do, to see, to experience…to eat (drool!)
  • Three overnight trips to Puebla, Puebla
  • Overnight trip to Tequisquiapan, Querétaro
  • Day trip to Bernal, Querétaro
  • Day trip to Mineral de Pozos, Guanajuato
  • Attended a Renaissance festival in Cadareyta, Querétaro
  • Visited many, many of our surrounding communities
  • Attended two private schools and will be attending a third starting this August
  • And so, so, so much more…

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All of which leads us to this summer winding down, the upcoming school year kicking off, and the perfect opportunity to “reset” or “reboot” the blog and talk about “Our Ex-Pat Life” and 8th grade in México (or Segundo de Secundaria)…Nos Vemos Pronto!!!

 

Education and Long-Term Family Travel

When we decided to set off on our travel adventure there were a number of logistics to work out. We had to choose our destinations, research visas, locate rental accommodations, book travel, but one of the most important decisions was how we’d continue our son’s education while we were on the road. Education and long-term family travel, do they mix? Could we make it work?

Continue reading Education and Long-Term Family Travel

Evolution of Renting in San Miguel de Allende

One of the things that makes travel fun for us is the opportunity to become a temporary local. We love the adventure and discovery that travel provides, but we equally enjoy the luxury of being “homebodies” abroad. Occasionally we do stay at hotels or B&Bs, but our preference is to rent a house or apartment from a local. For us, vacation rentals offer more bang for your buck, but it also provides a fantastic opportunity for cultural immersion. Continue reading Evolution of Renting in San Miguel de Allende